If you’re purely an in-bounds resort rider then this probably isn’t the place for you, the marked runs are pretty paltry compared to other Euro spots. Similarly, if your freeriding wet dream is more akin to a Jeremy Jones-esque ball shrinker of a run, chock full of steep chutes and gnarly couloirs, then there’s more technical terrain to be had elsewhere. But if you’re all about painting lines in fresh snow, throwing surfy turns in wide, open bowls and punching your ticket to the white room, then sack off Hokkaido and book a flight to Pristina.

“What made this so incredible was the fact that everywhere we rode, our tracks were the only ones in sight”

There are some lifts turning, but the infrastructure is pretty medieval if you’re used to the Alps. Only two chairlifts were in use while we were there and those seemed to be scheduled on an ever-changing whim, with others completely abandoned and out of service throughout the resort. One such jilted chair was built to service a backup Super G course for the 1984 Winter Olympics in Sarajevo and had only turned for two days before being shut off, thanks to the ongoing tension between Kosovo and Macedonia (where the chair disembarks).

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I’d recommend getting a guide or booking a snowcat, if not for safety then at least to find all the secret local spots without having to hike too much. Cat-boarding has always seemed a bit unrealistic in other Euro resorts due to the lack of available space, and financially out of reach in North America, so this was the perfect opportunity to give it a whirl. Considering the price, especially when compared to what you’d pay elsewhere, it was well worth the cash.

I’m not too consumed by narcissism to admit I’m not the best rider in the world, but this is the kind of snow and terrain that had me feeling like I’d been blessed by Dimitar himself. We were treated to a masterclass from K2 pros David Djité, Loranne Smans, Levi Luggen and Thomas Delfino which only served to up the ante and the froth levels tenfold.

“If you’ve got any sense or annual leave left to take, I’ll be seeing you there too- the first round of beer’s on me”

Brezovica itself is an economic juxtaposition. A shiny Tesla parked next to a rusted out hunk of junk, a deserted communist-era hotel against the backdrop of a chalet that wouldn’t look out of place in Vail, a rider in head-to-toe Prada outerwear riding on a rickety, wooden one-seater chairlift. The disparity of wealth was astounding and severe to a level I’ve only witnessed once previously when I was visiting Sochi to ride in Rosa Khutor.

A population of around 250 year-round residents make up the town, speaking mainly Serbian and Albanian. And while the war and resulting troubles have not been forgotten, the locals were friendly and accommodating, always open to having a chat and a beer. A stark contrast to the police who were such cowboys they would have given Butch Cassidy a run for his money. They gave us a run for our money too, try and keep a few bucks on hand to grease palms while you’re there, or you might end up having to trade possessions – a bag of beanies in our case.

The hotel we were originally meant to be staying at was closed due to the excessive snowfall blocking the road, so we were rehomed in the über-chic Rock Hotel. With prices averaging out at around £70 for a King Room it’s bafflingly nice, the staff are awesome and the food is authentically top-notch. It also has its own bar, which comes in handy considering you won’t find any traditional apres ski in town. (Sorry Hugo and Barnaby, but there’s no Folie Douce equivalent to spaff champagne on your trust fund buddies and their Canada Goose jackets here.)

I know it’s considered uncouth to mention a lady’s weight but we were greeted at the Rock Hotel’s check-in desk by Frida who’s BMI would make even the most laid-back doctor wince. She also smelled a bit funky but I don’t think she’ll mind me saying that as I’m pretty sure she can’t read. Frida, it’s worth saying, was our hotel’s gigantic St. Bernard and easily the most lovable member of hotel staff I’ve ever encountered. Even if she did hump me.

K2 Passport Snowboard 2022-2023

Whitelines Choice Winner: Best Unisex Freeride Snowboard
PRICE: £465 / €530 / $530

For 2023, K2 have expanded their unisex offering with the all-new Passport. This is your ticket to ride just about anything, with a lively personality and rider refined features that focus on piste and pow.

The Passport is built for deep days and steep days. It’ll be a reliable companion for specialised riding and, while it will prefer a blower day after a couple feet of fresh snowfall, you’ll still get that high-end performance on an overnight light dusting. The stiffer flex and performance oriented construction do place a bit of a barrier to entry here, so rookies might want to look toward something a bit more mellow.

Who Is The K2 Passport For?

You’re a confident rider who prioritises powder missions and days spent carving up the corduroy. Your park days are probably mostly behind you (or you have a specific freestyle quiver deck for party laps). You ride fast and hard and need a snowboard that can accompany you when you want to push your limits.

Selected for the Whitelines 100 – take a closer look at the 2022-2023 K2 Passport here