The Powder – 5/5

Courmayeur has an excellent snowfall record, and it’s no surprise that it’s been a stop on the Swatch Freeride World Tour.  The breathtaking view is not just a pretty face, and Monte Bianco stops southerly weather systems in their tracks, dumping their fruits on Courmayeur.

Like Italian cuisine, the resort’s strength is in its simplicity, and the top quality ingredients here are varied terrain, powder and trees. Due to its relatively low altitude, however, Courmayeur is a dish best served cold. Caution should always be exercised but there is loads of playful terrain accessible from the chairlifts, for example under the Dzeleuna and Plan de la Gabba chairs or, more adventurously, off the back of the Pra Neyron.

Unlocking the well-guarded secrets of Courmayeur may take time but that means there are plenty of nooks and crannies for everyone.  There are magical tree runs, pillows lines, chutes and cliffs, as well as long off-piste runs that wrap around both sides of the mountain from the top station, the Arp.

A guide is recommended on these backcountry routes from the top, although going with someone you trust and who knows what’s up is another option (at your own risk of course – this is Europe!). Avalanche safety is a prerequisite and you’ll see many locals with Avalungs and airbags on the big days.

Even off the lower lifts you can easily end up bushwhacking, getting lost or, if you’re not careful, being helicoptered out of the dangerous forbidden zone. A logical, gradual approach to your exploration will help you get the most out of your time here. Further freeriding possibilities include heli-boarding and taking a guide to the Punta Helbronner on the adjacent mountain – from where you can access the famous Vallée Blanche from the Italian side. Contact the Evolution 2 ski school.

The Parties – 3/5

Courmayeur is famed for its restaurants and to recommend just three on the mountain, Christiania is handy and fast with great pizza, while the Chiecco and Maison Vielle require more time and cash but are special experiences – great for stormy weather.

“Italian culture revolves around food, and in most places antipasti are served with your drinks”

The common thread is the Italian schnapps ‘grappa’, and proprietors are notoriously generous with their tasting sessions. The party normally starts here and after an interesting last run down, the après continues all along the main street. Here you’ll find the popular Bar Roma, the welcoming Bar delle Guide (which plays snow flicks) and the Americain Bar for football, food, wine and music. Italian culture revolves around food, and in most places antipasti are served with your drinks. This is useful if you are on a tight budget and even makes you look sophisticated. Later on, the Mont Frety outside area attracts some beautiful people and the Privé is reckoned to be the best cocktail and nibbles bar in town.

Many historic restaurants are also found in town such as the Pier Alexis, established in 1877, and the awesome Pizzeria du Tunnel, which has been serving traditional wood-fired pizzas for decades. The ancient food and wine culture really enriches Courmayeur’s nightlife, making it more a journey of discovery rather than a Jaeger-fuelled black hole.

*Price includes one piece hold luggage and hand luggage, plus meal and drink. 1 pair of skis or 1 snowboard, 1 pair of ski poles, 1 pair of ski boots or 1 pair of snowboard boots travel free of charge, in addition to standard baggage allowance (excluding hand luggage only fares) and is subject to availability. Price quoted as one-way, per person including airport taxes and surcharges departing from London Heathrow to Geneva. Price correct at the time of production and is subject to change and exchange rate variations. Availability is limited and on some payment methods a charge of 1.65% may apply.